Welcome to a post for all subscribers, all about a natural wine fair I attended and what I drank there. Next Tuesday, paid subscribers will receive a recipe for springy meringue kisses. As always, check out my past posts here and learn more about my day job here. Thanks for reading!
A few weeks ago, Third Coast Soif descended upon Chicago’s West Loop. Soif felt concentrated and drawn out all at once: the event itself lasts just five hours, while “off-Soif” dinners, tastings, and talks draw out for two weeks. It’s a moment that feels like Chicago is the focus of the wine world for a brief moment, and it’s wonderful.
This year, Colin and I managed to snag tickets. I had no idea what to expect from the fair, but, of course, I loved it. Getting to meet and talk with producers and importers from around the world felt extra important especially given the tariffs that hung (hang?) over the industry at the time. (To read more about that, head over to
’s incredible piece on tariffs and the wine industry.)
I have written about wine here. I have told you that it makes me feel a deep insecurity and imposter syndrome, the kind I don’t typically feel at this point in my life, to write about it. Because this is a relatively new interest of mine, I shy away from sharing too much of it. I know what I like, of course, but I also know that my taste in wine is just as personal as my taste in books.
Going to a wine fair felt deeply intimidating to me, but as soon as we arrived, I relaxed. Third Coast Soif, at its core, is all about accessibility: the ticket cost is low ($30) and the exhibitors don’t do much table dressing, if any. We navigated the fair as if searching for hidden treasure, with a map we had printed out and only numbers and names scribbled on the butcher paper tablecloths to help us.
The producers at the fair ranged from domestic to international, pouring wine made from commonly-recognized grapes to obscure varietals I’d never heard of or tasted before (again: wine newbie!). One thing that struck me across the board, though, was how generous everyone was with their time. The passion that drives this industry never fails to amaze me, and, in fact, remains one of the things that I feel so bewitched by.
That these producers can grow the grapes, painstakingly nursing vines through dry and wet spells, unbearable heat and unseasonable cold, taste the juice as it ages and make split second decisions about how to intervene or not to intervene, go about the hard work of bottling the wine, making the labels, finding a partner to import and distribute it, and still show up to answer my countless silly questions about the final product and taste it alongside me is a miracle. I feel lucky to partake in the fruits of their labor. The whole experience to me felt much like a communion—these wines are the stories of their makers, poured into a bottle. The difference in tasting these wines, whether or not you feel that they truly count as “natural” is that they are grown by people, not by corporations. They have lives and histories and intimate connections with the land they farm. They count their livelihoods in vintages and things like tariffs can completely change everything for them in the blink of an eye.
Soif was a fun, wine-soaked day, to be sure. But it was also a reminder of why it’s so important to think critically (even if you don’t know what you’re thinking about or whether your thoughts are 100% right!) about what you’re drinking and who put it into the bottle.
Some highlights I’d recommend you seek out:
Stranger Wines: Michigan wines like you’ve never dreamed. The Pinot Noir remains one of my all-time favorites. Watch for a taproom this summer!
Carboniste: Sparkling wines from California that should not be overlooked. An incredible portfolio! I couldn’t pick a favorite between the 2023 Crab Extra Brut and the 2023 Albariño.
Mae Son by Matteo Furlani: A quartet of practically perfect wines from a collaboration between the Furlani family and Jenny + Francois. The Rosé Frizzante was an absolute dream.
Two Shepherds: A long-time favorite in our house (which I’ve written about before!). Every wine that William makes is absolutely divine, and the new Carbonic Carnignan I tasted at the fair only reassured me of that!
Domaine de la Goguette: The first wines we tasted, which were some of our favorites. Extremely unique wines with clean taste profiles and lots of personality.
Valfaccenda: Delightful, surprising wines from a passionate producer. The ‘Bis-Lacco’ Vino Bianco stands out as one of my favorites of the weekend.
Caprera: I’ve never had a wine as distinctive as the ‘Le Vasche’ from this estate. I’ll be thinking about it until the next time I get to try it.
Thanks for reading! See you back here next week for spring meringue recipes!